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Garching bei München to camping Aquileia

The plan for the second day was to push through to Italy, near Trieste, which is near the border with Slovenia, so I would be nicely poised to drive into Croatia the next day. That meant crossing the Alps.

I've been to the Alps many times before, but always in winter, and always for skiing trips. I can't remember ever being there in summertime. Maybe once or twice in the foothills during family camping trips in France.

What I do know is that one of my favourite parts of those ski trips is the drive up and down the mountain. There's something challenging about driving in the mountains that you don't get on roads through flatter country. The corners, the switchbacks, the grade, the wall of mountain on one side, the sheer drop (or dense forest) on the other.

So, no way was I going to drive through the Alps by highway. No, I wanted to take the scenic route. And that's what I did.

And—bonus!—no need to pay the highway tax for Austria, as I would be avoiding the highway while driving through. Not that this was an objective in choosing the scenic route, and it didn't really work out like that in the end, as you'll see later on...

Anyway, the next day started out worse, as the weather had turned nicely wet and overcast. Combined with the numerous road works going on on the German highways, the view out of my windscreen was often like this the first couple of miles:

But it soon got better, as I left the German highway behind and headed off into the mountains on the lesser roads. The first part of these roads were still pretty large roads, somewhat like the N-roads in France. Maximum speed 100 km/h, so I made pretty good time.

And then I got to the part I had been looking forward to.

If you look a bit closer at that google map at the top of this post, you'll notice the track goes through a green part in the middle of Austria. If you zoom in, you'll be able to read that that green area is called Nationalpark Hohe Tauern. And the road that lies beneath that track through the Nationalpark Hohe Tauern is called the Großglockner Hochalpenstraße. And the Großglockner Hochalpenstraße just happens to be a toll road. Which costs €29.00 to pass. So there went my 8-odd euro savings for the Austrian highway tax...

I actually very briefly played with the idea to head back and find another road over the Alps that wasn't a toll road. Very briefly. And I'm very happy I didn't do that, after my experience going the other way on my trip back. But that's a story for another post.

So, I bit the bullet, paid my toll, and went on my way. And glad I did, because it was one of the nicest drives I've had. Even despite, or maybe because of, the weather. Which wasn't very good. As you can see:

So even though the weather conditions weren't that good, I had a very good time on the Großglockner Hochalpenstraße. And it was totally worth the €29.00, for the views, and the driving itself. I would totally recommend taking this route on your next trip crossing the Alps.

After the Großglockner Hochalpenstraße, the roads gradually got larger again after crossing into Italy, and finally I rejoined the highway a bit south of Udinese, in Italy.

I had bought a special camping guide for Italy, Croatia and the surrounding countries, but in the end I never once used it on this trip. The road maps I had with me had little markers on them pointing to camping sites, and I always managed to find them by driving to the general area and then following the signs next to the road. A lesson for next time, maybe.

The first night sleeping in my tent was on a nice little camping near Aquileia, Italy. I arrived there when it was still light and dry, but soon it started to rain softly. I decided to quickly put up my tent while it was still reasonably dry, and very glad I did. Soon it started to rain harder, and after a while it came pouring down. I took shelter in my car for a bit, and soon it slowed down again. I had eaten something after I left the highway, so I didn't need to cook, luckily.

After buying some internet time at the front desk and whatsapp'ing with some of my family I went to bed. And discovered my tent was leaking. Crap.

Luckily I was on my own, so I could position my sleeping bag diagonally and avoid the couple of drips that were seeping through. Maybe not a bad idea to check the tent for leaks before heading out next time. And maybe it wasn't such a good idea to rely on a tent that was more than ten years old already. Another lesson for next time, I guess...